 There is so much to love about traveling to Italy. The food, the wine, the breathtaking scenery! With so many unique cities to experience, many of us find ourselves visiting again and again, discovering something new each time. My oldest friend has started spending her summers doing archaeological digs and studying the Etruscans in the Umbrian countryside. Last July, for her birthday, she invited our friends to come visit so she could show us around. My boyfriend, Patrick, and I were planning to meet up with the group in Sorrento. Before joining them, we had about 4 days to do whatever we wanted, so we were faced with the difficult question of where, exactly, to go. Patrick and I are both quite outdoorsy, and so we wanted to go somewhere that would be bursting with natural beauty. We were particularly interested in Sicily, since we had been to Italy before, but never to that region. At some point in my research, I came across a Lonely Planet article showcasing Sicily’s best coastal hikes. Four of the seven hikes were found in the Aeolian Islands, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily known by some as “The Hawaii of Italy.” I had never heard of the Aeolians before, but the photos were stunning. And the fact that there was not one, but two active, hike-able volcanoes immediately appealed to my sense of adventure. We were sold!  Molten rock erupting from Stromboli volcano I decided to write a post about our trip because I felt that there wasn’t an abundance of information available while we were in our planning phase. Forums on TripAdvisor were certainly helpful, but there wasn’t much in the way of how-to guides -- the kind that make it easy to emulate someone else’s tried and true itinerary. Because neither of us had our driver’s licenses at the time of our trip, we relied only on public transportation and occasional taxis to get around. My hope is that this post will be helpful for others who are planning a summer vacation in the gorgeous, unforgettable Aeolian Islands.  The view from Vulcanello, Vulcano overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea Step 1: Figuring out how to get there There are a few different options when it comes to getting to the Aeolian Islands, but since the region is pretty remote, it’s going to take a long time to get there no matter what. I promise, it’s worth the trek! We opted to take a redeye into Rome from New York, and then caught a connecting flight to Reggio Calabria. From Reggio Calabria, it was a short taxi ride to the ferry station, where we took a hydrofoil to the islands. To us, taking a boat directly to our destination was preferable after a long flight and I believe it is the fastest, as opposed to flying to Catania and taking a bus to Milazzo, and then a ferry.  A cozy corner of the patio at Grand Hotel Arciduca, Lipari Step 2: Picking a base and a hotel Because each of the islands has its own unique charm, there is some debate over which one makes the best base. We picked Lipari, as many do, because it boasts the biggest town, complete with its own archaeological museum, plenty of restaurants, and the most frequent hydrofoil connections to the other islands. In Lipari we wanted to find a hotel that would be within walking distance of the ferry station, and ultimately chose the Grand Hotel Arciduca. Between the pool, the colorful, funky decor, and the wonderful free breakfast every day, we really enjoyed our stay. I still think about some of those pastries they put out each morning, particularly a certain ricotta cake… The hotel also provides a free shuttle service, so when you first arrive in Lipari with your luggage, you can just call the front desk and they will send someone to pick you up.  A Liparian street scene Step 3: Planning your itinerary Island hopping is common in the Aeolians, and it's relatively easy to figure it all out as long as you pay attention to the schedule. Patrick and I made the mistake of planning our itinerary once we were already on vacation, thinking that it would be easier to figure out what to do once we got there. While this may be partially true, it also forced us to do significant research and planning over dinners where we would rather just be relaxing. Here I will share what we did, in the hopes that it may save you from a similar fate!  Patrick exploring the ancient streets of Lipari Day 1: Get settled in Lipari We felt a bit stranded when we first arrived at the ferry terminal in Reggio Calabria, because there didn’t seem to be much available in terms of places to eat and we had a few hours to wait. We were thankful to stumble upon the nearby Hotel Continental because there’s a little cafe inside where we could have a snack and sit comfortably until our departure time. Once we boarded the hydrofoil, it was only two short hours before we reached our island paradise. We arrived at our hotel in the afternoon, exhausted by the long journey, and above all wanting to relax. After a shower and a dip in the hotel pool, we strolled around Lipari to get our bearings and chose a spot to have dinner. Swordfish is a local specialty, and Il Corallo does it beautifully in the Aeolian style with capers and tomatoes. The region is also known for their local wines, which taste even better when you’re sitting in the restaurant's airy outdoor garden.  Inhaling sulfuric gas at Vulcano's crater Day 2: Hike Vulcano and visit a black sand beach There are two active volcanoes in the Aeolian islands: Vulcano and Stromboli, which are also the names of the islands where they are found. Vulcano is known for the sulfurous gas that flows out of its fumaroles, emitting a signature stench that is much stronger in some areas than others. Patrick and I hadn’t yet made up our minds as to whether we were up to the challenge of hiking Stromboli, which takes hours and has been described as “intense.” But we knew that a Vulcano hike would be more or less doable, and so we decided to start there.  Smoke billowing out of Vulcano to remind us that it's still active We caught a hydrofoil in the morning after breakfast, and arrived at Vulcano in no time. The first thing you’ll notice when you set foot on land is the scent of sulfur, which is pungent. There are stands near the port that sell bandanas to cover your nose and mouth, and these are especially helpful once you get closer to the source of the smell at the crater.  Taking in the sweeping vistas from atop Vulcano After walking around and exploring a bit, we set out to begin our hike. The path up the volcano is a gentle incline with captivating views, allowing you to see some of the other islands in the distance. When you finally get to the bare, igneous top, you feel almost like you’re walking on an alien planet.  Watching the sun set at Vulcano's black sand beach is nothing short of magical If you’re like me, once you’ve finished hiking, you’ll want to cool off with a swim and grab a bite to eat, which is what we did next. La Baia Negra (also known as Spiaggia Nera) is a public black sand beach with lounge chairs and umbrellas. Here you can enjoy some well-deserved rest after the physical exertion of the hike, gazing out at the sailboats and the rock formations surrounding the beach. On the far right side of the beach, there is a little hut called Sunset Beach where you can grab a panino and an Aperol spritz.  Spiaggia dello Scario in Malfa, Salina Day 3: Explore Salina and watch the sunset at Quattrocchi I find that the best vacations are all about striking a balance between activity and relaxation, so on our third day, we decided to venture to Salina, which is known for its spas and wineries. Because Salina is the second largest island, it’s not possible to get everywhere you want to go by foot, the way we could in Vulcano. Renting a car or scooter would definitely be the way to go here, but we made it work by taking the shuttle bus from the port (Porto di Santa Marina) to the town of Malfa. Be sure to check the timetable online, as the buses don't come all that frequently.  Beachgoers swimming and lounging on the pebble beach. Watch out for jellyfish! Visiting Spiaggia dello Scario is one of the most popular things to do in Malfa, though you wouldn’t know it by the pleasantly small number of people hanging out there when we went. The beauty at this beach is striking. Try not to gasp as you approach it from the cliffs above and see nothing but clear turquoise water beneath you. Since the beach is so rocky, you’ll want to rent an inflatable mattress for lying on (one per person). Some people also bring these into the water as floaties. You can also rent umbrellas here, and if you get hungry, there is a beachside cafe to provide shade, nourishment, and a place to change.  Enjoying a glass of wine at Fenech After swimming and lounging at the beach, the next item on our agenda was finding a winery. There are a few wineries within walking distance of the beach, including two well-reviewed spots: Azienda Agricola Virgona and Fenech Azienda Agricola Biologica. We ended up choosing Fenech because we had read that the owner goes above and beyond to make guests feel welcome with tours of the vineyard and endlessly entertaining stories. We arrived at Fenech with an adorable dog we made friends with in town who decided to join us. The owner wasn’t around because he was traveling, but one of his employees greeted us and said we could still do a tasting if we liked. Even without meeting the owner or hearing his stories, we had a really nice time hanging out at the winery. Patrick and I were the only ones there, so we had the entire patio to ourselves overlooking the sea below. Unlike more traditional tastings, our host began by setting an entire bottle of white wine on the table, which we sipped as we talked and relaxed. Our host didn’t speak much English, and we don’t speak Italian, but he made us feel at home and brought us little snacks (cheese, bread, cured meats, and olives) that we shared with our dog.  Our dog for the day, with one blue eye and one brown The second course was a bottle of Malvasia, a sweet dessert wine that is a must-try in the Aeolians. Having polished off one already, we couldn’t finish the whole bottle at the winery, but it was so delicious that we took it with us and had the rest later. The tasting ended with grappa, which is a brandy made by distilling the skins, pulp, seeds, and stems left over from winemaking. Grappa tends to be a bit too strong for me, but Patrick enjoyed it. Overall, we found the winery delightful. Hopefully the next time we visit, we can finally meet the famous Francesco Fenech.  Patrick making himself at home at the winery From the winery, our host called a taxi to bring us to the ferry station and back to Lipari in time for sunset. Our plan was to head to Belvedere Quattrocchi, and we couldn’t wait to take in the lovely view. Patrick is passionate about taking photos on vacation (see: his Flickr) and he was excited to get the perfect sunset shot. Once back in Lipari, we took a short taxi ride to the lookout spot, and then wandered down a prickly-pear lined path to get an even better look. Just to be sure we wouldn’t get stranded, we got our taxi driver’s number when he dropped us off so we could call him for pickup when we were ready to go. The extraordinary views of Vulcano and beyond did not disappoint.  The stunning Belvedere Quattrocchi in Lipari, with Vulcano in the distance Day 4: Archeological Museum & boat excursion to Stromboli Day 4 was our last full day in the islands, and we saved the best for last. We were psyched to visit the constantly active Stromboli volcano. If you wish to see the volcanic eruptions (and they are not to be missed), you really only have the following options:
 Twin lava spurts at Stromboli, as seen from our boat tour Even after reading about it extensively, we had a hard time deciding whether to do the hike. We loved the adventure aspect, but we knew the hike would be steep, take about 6 hours, and since it was July, it would be extremely hot. Ultimately, we decided not to do it due to a huge explosion that occurred at Stromboli just days earlier: the volcano's largest eruption since 1930. Having finally made our decision to see Stromboli's embers by boat, we spent the morning scrambling to find the best option for our excursion. It turns out pretty much all of the tours follow a similar schedule, with most of them beginning in the afternoon. We went with Aliante which, like the others, has a small office in Lipari where you can buy tickets and talk to an agent in person.  Regional Aeolian Archeological Museum Luigi Bernabò Brea, Lipari Tickets in hand, we decided to check out the Archaeological Museum in Lipari before it was time to board. There is so much to look at, so you’ll want to give yourself at least two hours if you visit. We found it very interesting to see the vast collection of ancient Roman and Greek artifacts discovered from shipwrecks near the Aeolians.  Boats at the harbor in Lipari Next it was time to locate and board our vessel. Nearly all the tourists on the boat were Italian, and the guide spoke over the loudspeaker in Italian only, but this didn’t bother us -- we were just happy to be spending the day on a boat. The guides have signs that make it clear what time you need to be back at the dock whenever it stops somewhere, and we liked being able to do our own thing at each destination. Make sure you wear your bathing suit for the tour, because one of the most memorable parts of the day was when the boat anchored and let everyone jump into the water for a swim. This was awesome, but take the plunge only if you are a strong swimmer, because the water is deep and the current can cause you to drift away from the boat. We definitely had to hustle a little to make it back on deck when swim time was up.  Panarea yacht life. Must be nice. The first stop is Panarea, the smallest Aeolian island, known for yacht parties and celebrity visits. Coming here as part of the excursion is a neat way to check one more island off the list without having to spend the entire day. The boat docks at the harbor for an hour or so, which gives you just enough time to have a quick bite of arancini (fried rice balls) or a granita, those refreshing frozen slushies made with real fruit. From there it’s time to go to Stromboli. Sitting on the top deck of the boat as it zoomed toward the massive formation was quite the rush. When we arrived, it was still daylight, so we had some time to kill before the much-anticipated lava viewing after sunset. We spent it by visiting the super-small Visitor Center, which is free and features lots of information (in Italian and English) about the volcano’s history.  Another black sand beach on the shore of Stromboli There were a lot of tourist-trap-looking restaurants along the shore of the island, but if you venture through the charming, white-walled alleyways of the town, you can find a few more options, including Da Giovanni Ristorante, which has great pizza. The sun was beginning to set as we headed back to the boat for the event we all were waiting for. Patrick and I took a seat on the upper deck as we started making our way to the side of the island where Stromboli’s fiery mouth is in full view, and glowing orange lava flows down the side of the mountain.  Sunset near Stromboli before the volcano viewing As the first stream of hot lava burst out of the crater, you could hear and feel the crowd’s excitement. Much like when you see the first firecracker on the fourth of July, or the first shooting star in a meteor shower, we audibly reacted in unison, creating the warm sense that all of us were experiencing this special moment together: Italians and Americans, children and grandparents, all equally dazzled by the sight. Naturally, we started talking to one another, especially when folks started noticing the close-up shots Patrick was getting with his camera. The eruptions were quite frequent, but they never got old. I watched the whole thing through my binoculars, which definitely helped, but those on deck without them seemed happy enough as well.  One of the biggest and most impressive eruptions of the evening Day 5: Saying goodbye
After one last breakfast at the Arciduca, it was time to go. I would love to return to the Aeolians again someday, because there is so much more to see beyond what we could cover in just 3 ½ days. From Lipari, we moved on to the next leg of our journey, taking the ferry to Solerno en route to Sorrento, where our friends awaited us. I hope this post will inspire your next vacation, or help someone somewhere come up with a plan for their own Aeolian adventure. Until next time, ciao!
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